Paris Fashion Week is officially over, so it is time for me to choose my three favorite collections of this season. Let’s begin with the first on the top: as you all know, I carry in my heart a very special place for Alexander McQueen…

The progression from white to black, through red and cherry-blossom-pale-pink, is supposed to represent “a beautiful future, positivity, optimism” according to Sarah Burton who “wanted lightness, the sense that the dresses were hovering“. Burton created her own futuristic world, close to the imaging of another Burton: filmmaker Tim Burton, whose universe can remain McQueen’s one where the darkness can be enchanting, and the colors are illusions supposed to cheer us more. Extreme can be synonymous of McQueen’s aesthetic, but there’s a certain fragility, a tenderness to this collection exploring certainly the ideals of what feminity would look like in the “beautiful future“. If the future looks that beautiful, then I can’t wait to see that.

Inspired by the Modern Renaissance, Damir Doma proposed a quilted leather tabard on top of a fur jacket, a suede blazer, a button-front blouse and a very beautiful up-to-date orangey pink, brown, black and dark red shades in the tailoring.
As for Jean-Paul Gaultier, the whole collection was a perfect reinterpretation of what the 60′s New York underground scene (Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory, Nico, The Velvet Underground…) would look like if it happened today. Lots of black, of leather, touches of bright printed colors to make a beautiful contrast with the darkness, this F/W 2012-2013 collection of Gaultier has to be in our closet by this Fall!

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